Chef Naoya Kawasaki, affectionately known as Chef Nao, embraces the spotlight through an autumnal journey of seasonal creations, reflecting nearly 30 years of refined culinary skills as an omakase chef. His philosophy is simple yet complex: bringing forth the most transcendental experiences using only the finest ingredients.
Through crimson red leaves and the cold autumn breeze, he invites guests to experience the enchantment of autumn, encapsulated in twelve exquisite dishes at the table.
Disclaimer: Experiences may vary based on daily specials and Chef Nao's selections. Personal tastes and perceptions may differ.
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The meal commences with a soft introduction to one of the main foundations of the experience: rice. This is presented as a unique beverage — Amazake.
Dating back to the Kofun period, Amazake, or “sweet sake,” is crafted from rice and Kome-koji, fermented to a desired sweetness, with barley-like notes and a melt-in-your-mouth texture. Despite the word “sake” in its name, Amazake is non-alcoholic, and its intricate complexities are purely a result of fermentation.
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The trinity of the ocean's finest tuna. An assortment of sashimi cradled in a teal-coloured bowl, complemented by seaweed and fresh wasabi. Starting with the Shiro Maguro, or “white tuna”, from the pristine waters of Kyushu, this fish offers a natural sweetness and chewy texture that melds beautifully with the dipping sauce.
Shikoku's finest Katsuo, or “skipjack tuna”, is renowned for its versatility. Often dried, fermented, and smoked to create the beloved bonito flakes, Chef Nao instead slices the Katsuo raw, topping it with savoury brown onion sauce and multicoloured sesame seeds, enhancing its umami depth. The sliced Otoro has a marbled and glossy sheen, promising a melt-in-your-mouth experience that lingers on the palate.
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The experience continues with a distant cousin of the shellfish—Japanese oysters, otherwise known as Kaki.
From the calm waters of Hiroshima, it is served with vibrant green garlic miso sauce and toasted sesame seeds. Distinct from other oysters, the Kaki offers a soft and creamy mouthfeel, unveiling a rush of briny oceanic flavour, finishing with garlic umami and slight acidity. It encapsulates the crisp oceanic breeze, a seaside memoir.
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A seasonal exclusive that presents an ecosystem—karaage-style Mehikari, or green-eyed fish, lightly fried Matsutake mushrooms, grilled Hokkaido white corn, delicate Japanese sweetfish, Ayu, and rustic mountain yam topped with wagyu and miso.
Reflecting the intricacy of his philosophy and intent, Chef Nao recommends starting with corn, which has a sweet milk and charred buttery flavour. The prized Matsutake mushroom fritter offers woody, earthy notes with a light crunch.
The tenderness of Mehikari pairs well with a touch of sea salt, while the Ayu's flavour profile is enhanced by the Kanroni cooking style, producing a sweet-savoury richness with a deep brown glossy finish.
To end the experience, the mountain yam, wagyu, and miso present a complex interplay; buttery, charred yam with roasted notes, the deep umami of wagyu and miso enveloping the palate.
This dish paints a picturesque journey—from the humble cornfields of Hokkaido to a meditative walk in the forest, toe-dipping in rivers, and the calming echoes of the mountains.
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A unique bowl of Shabu Shabu awaits, featuring sliced Kinmedai, or golden snapper, swimming in a pool of zesty ponzu and light dashi broth. It is topped with grated radish and a hint of smoked chilli.
This dish embodies a warm embrace on a chilly autumn night—mellow, buttery notes of fish gentle on the tongue, melding with the citrus and seafood nuances of the ponzu broth. The warm spice of the chilli peppers provides a gentle aftertaste, perfect for the coming winter days.
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The Seiko-gani, or female snow crab, is Chef Nao's introduction to crustaceans. This is no ordinary crab; the Seiko-gani is a rare delicacy from the depths of Ishikawa, with only two harvesting periods each year. Nestled in her glorious shell are layers of crab roe, succulent meat, ponzu jelly, topped with caviar and a golden flake garnish.
This dish surpasses its predecessors—the crab roe and caviar oozes a briny, lustrous texture, the meat hints at sweetness, pairing beautifully with the fragrance of the ponzu jelly, cutting through the creaminess and ending with a light citrus finish.
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The Pumpkin Chawanmushi is Chef Nao's version of Halloween: a sunset-brown egg custard topped with golden cubes of fresh pumpkin, served in a warm ceramic bowl.
Velvety smooth, it coats the palate like a luxurious caramel pudding. The contrast between the sweetness of the pumpkin and the Chawanmushi's light creaminess captures the warmth of a thick woollen coat among fallen autumn leaves.
A symphony of the songs of the sea, Chef Nao presents a tapestry of different seafood that reflects the season.
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Steamed in sake using the Sakamushi method, the Hotate from Hokkaido's fresh waters are elegantly presented on a clam, showcasing juicy scallops alongside their gills and liver.
Nestled among slow-cooked cabbage, spinach, earthy Eringi mushrooms, and crisp asparagus, it is garnished with diced yuzu slices in a pool of light umami. This creation mirrors the serenity of a warm evening, blooming gently like the calm after a storm.
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The final savoury dish is Chef Nao's Special Oyakodon, presented over rice. Translating to the "parent and child rice bowl," it traditionally consists of chicken and egg; Chef Nao's rendition transforms it from a farm-based dish to an oceanic delight: salmon and roe.
Cubed salmon, vibrant orange roe, and a blend of minced Otoro and Chutoro are topped with Japanese leek, soy sauce, and yuzu shavings. This mellifluous blend of flavours and textures is accompanied by warm miso soup, soothing the soul.
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The final course bids a gentle autumn farewell: warm yuzu green tea with bright citrus and slight bitterness, followed by matcha ice cream crowned with red bean and crisp rice paper, soft chestnut mochi, and a slice of honeyed pear and sweet-tart strawberry to complete the journey.
In this culinary tapestry, Chef Nao brilliantly evokes the senses and touches the soul with each brushstroke of flavour and artistry.
This journey reveals a different side of the warm autumn we cherish, capturing the enchantment of forests, fields, and the oceanic whispers of coastal shores, reminding us that even as leaves fall, the heart of autumn lingers beautifully on our plates.